| Username |
Post |
| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 04:05 AM
as i sit here in my office in Geneva, poring over files and browsing through the internet, i cannot help my mind from wandering into the streets of istanbul once again. it's been only 3 days since i left that wonderful city, but to my mind the days stretch interminably. yet paradoxically, the wound, the pang of severing myself from that historic era to which i felt transported is fresh. and i feel a revival of the pain of separation with each closing of my eyes as the visions of the relics left by time appear vividly before me -- the blue mosque, the yerebatan "sunken palace", the harem of the topkapi palace... the smell of the crisp night of the cruise along the bosphorus river is a recent "olfactory" memory and the taste of the authentic turkish kebabs that my young turkish friend, a law student, offered me is a taste that lingers still.
what is peculiar to me is that in all my travels so far, not that they surpass a handful in number, never has a place arrested me with the beauty, the grandeur, the deception, the decency, and of course the memories that my short trip to istanbul inspires in me even as i write at this moment. i feel a fluttering in my heart, a strange tingling sensation, something akin to the idea of falling in love when i think of the experiences i had touring the place, especially the Sultanahmet Square area. to many it was the average tourist area. to me, it was a priceless opportunity to walk through an era, through history, through time, through works of art that i thought possible only in imaginations.
my favorite experience was walking through the sunken palace, with pillars standing on the head of Medusa, the Gorgon of Greek mythology that always captivated me as a child. the utter darkness thruogh which streams of light seared, making way for unaccustomed eyes to marvel at the magic, held so much awe for me that i came out into the hot and arid street stupefied. my "guide," the young law student, was waiting for me at the exit.
"what happened?" he asked me.
"nothing. it was SO beautiful inside," is what i managed to say.
i feel so overwhelmed to write any more. i will write longer when i can compose myself....i know, i know, i am acting emotional. but that is precisely what i felt when i boarded the plane to leave that beautiful city behind.......
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 05:12 AM
i met this young fellow quite interestingly. it was last tuesday, and the only day that i was free from the conference i was attending. my peers were presenting on that day, so i had to venture out on my own. i later found out that many others were reluctant to walk the streets by themselves. i could have waited till the end of the day for my friends. but the thrill of doing things by Yourself is unmatched, don't you think? so, i decided to brave things myself.
i arrived at Sultanahmet at around 1pm, and asked the cab driver to drop me at the Blue Mosque, which he did. After struggling with the money, which was difficult to recognize, i got off and walked toward the mosque. it looked magnificent!
after a tour of the mosque, i came out into the street and walked into a little park opposite the Hagia Sofya church. there was a lovely fountain in the midst of the park. through its waters were faintly visible three buildings probably built in the 1600s. i was looking through my camera to locate an appropriate angle to have a picture taken when i heard a voice behind me say, "that's a nice place to take pictures." i turned around to face an exquisite looking young man with hazel eyes, dark blonde hair, who was smiling at me with the most shapely lips i had ever seen.
"will you take a picture for me, then?" I asked.
"yeah, sure," he said.
after taking my picture, he introduced himself to me as a law student who was practicing the English language by speaking with tourists in the area.
"can i walk with you? i can show you around if you agree to speak with me in English," he said. i looked skepticallly at him. only an hour ago, another friendly man had tried to sell me an expensive silk carpet.
"if you're trying to sell me a carpet, then i warn you that i am not interested," i said laughingly.
"oh no no no. i am not selling carpets," he replied with a smile.
"alright then. we can walk together. i have till about 6pm and then i need to go back to Taksim," I said.
and thus he became my guide for my few trips to Sultanhamet Square.
More later......
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| najar |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 05:57 AM
Simplegal---mesmerizing.....have always wanted to go there although yet to materialize...look forward to reading more.
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| KaLaNkIsThaN |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 07:19 AM
Ola Ola wola wola simpuuuu wola!!
Ani ani ke bhaa re? Do I see love-story in a bloom? ehh.. (Imagine this: Rekha goes to Istanbul, sings a song, and 'voila!!', Amitabh Bachchan happens to be at the same place tryin' to learn how to sing couple of love duets. HowyaLikeTHAT?).
Nicely written! waiting impatiently for the third one eh!
[you are going to the places that are on my 'to go' list. daaro laagyo. grrrrr!]
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| Poonte |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 07:41 AM
Meribaasaaaaaaaiiiiiiii!
Bhaagyamaani ko bhutai kamaaro bhane jasto! Testo testo...exotic thaam haru ghumna ni paaunu....ani feri swarga baata pari jhare jhain gari testo seusi lips bhaako hansy thito tuplukka Simple jyu ko sewa garna haajeer pani hunu! Dahaa le bhutukkai ma ta!
Maile ta yo hijo raati padhera suteko...ani sapana ma chha ni hai...ma pani kunni kataa ho gaako re...aekdam raamro thaam ma! sohra inchi ko lens bhaako daammmmmi camera jhikera photo khichna laako bela ma...pachhadi baata euti chwaak (I mean, chwaakkkkkaaaaiiii ni!) taruni le seusi naaaaaaaaaa seusi shwor ma, "That's a nice place to take pictures." bhani raa bhanyaa! Danga parera...chaati fullaundai yesso seusi styale ma bistaarai farkera heryaata...aafnai shreemati po! ehehehh
Ani, ani ani? Lop paryo tyo seusi thito sanga? Bhoj khana paam hai! :P
Kalanki!!!!!!!!!!!!! Malai ni khub jaana rahar chha tyo Istanbul tira...sangai tikat kaatne ki? paiso chhaina bhane timro ghara aaunchhu ma, ani dai-bhai milera "ees-taan-bull" (eeeeeeeees bhandai goru ko puchhar tanne) game khelamla! ;)
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| hamisabai |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 04:16 PM
wow, quite a narration!
hope to read some more..
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| SITARA |
Posted
on 01-Jul-03 06:05 PM
SimpleGal:
Great narration!
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| Bhunte |
Posted
on 02-Jul-03 02:21 AM
la pakheta nabhayeko Angel ta kaha bata kaha pugi sakichha...timro travel journal padhda ta yeha malai sapana jastai lai ra chha. ani Marco Polo ko Asia tour padhya jasto feel bhaya chha yeha. Turkey ma pani manchhe haru English practice garne rahar garda raichhan? ma ta hamro thamel ma matra ho ki jasto lagya thiyo. Geneva ko yatra bare pani sunau na ta...
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 01:46 AM
My time at the Blue Mosque:
I woke up late that morning -- 10.30am. The previous day and night had been long. Conference talks beginning at 9am, socializing in the afternoon, and eventually, a cruise on the Bosphorus river. I got home exhausted at midnight.
A long shower later, I walked out the hotel door and into the busy streets of Taksim Square, the Manhattan of this part of Istanbul. I hailed for a cab.
"Sultanahmet," I informed the driver who nodded in recognition of the name. "You speak English?" I asked.
"Ah....little little," he said and smiled. "You tourist?" he asked.
"Yes," I replied.
He drove past the crowded streets, maneuvering the cab with such ease. I looked out the window at the hordes of shops lined up neatly. I was reminded of Kathmandu -- the erratic vehicles, the small shops, the people in the shops bargaining at both ends. It got a bit windy and my denim hat with tiny daisies on them got almost blown away in the wind.
"Hat problem," said the driver. "Maybe you not wear it now."
"No, it's ok," I said.
"You look chin," he said, stroking his chin. I was puzzled.
"Chin?" I asked.
"Japon, Japon. You look from Japon," he tried to clarify.
"Oh, you mean I look Japanese? Hahaha" I responded. He smiled. We fell quiet for the rest of the trip as he concentrated on the road and I on the magnificent mosque that appeared as if suddenly as the cab made a turn toward the bridge that took me to Sultanahmet. I didn't know then, but that was the beautiful Blue Mosque, towering above the rest of the buildings thereabout.
"Five millyon liras," said the cabbie. I fumbled in my wallet and produced what seemed like 5 millyon, gave it to him and opened the door.
Little stalls selling various knick knacks, an ATM machine, and a stall for currency exchange were immediately visible.
"The Blue Mosque doesn't look so blue," I thought to myself as I walked toward it.
"The mosque closes at 2, so you have an hour," said a voice behind me. A man probably in his 30s with Tahiti colored skin, jet black hair and dark sunglasses looked at me. "Are you going for prayer?" he asked me.
"No, I just wanted to have a look at the place."
"Where are you from? What are you doing in Istanbul?"
"I'm from the US. I'm attending conference."
"Oh, I was in the US before. Burlington, Massachusetts. I was there on business."
"I thought Burlington was in Vermont."
"Yes, Vermont. Sorry I forgot. Are you a doctor? I'm a doctor. Internal medicine. But I have a carpet store. Doctors don't make good money in Turkey so I'm running my family business. Do you want me to take a picture for you?"
"Well, alright."
He took my picture in front of the Blue Mosque and one with the Hagia Sofya church as the backdrop. The church is just opposite the mosque. Apparently, the Sultan Ahmet, whose name the place bears, wanted to build a mosque to compete with the grandeur of the church. I didn't get a chance to go to the church, but was told by the locals that it is a thing of beauty.
"Do you want to go inside the mosque? I can show you inside."
I thought for a second, "Hmmm.. can I trust this fellow? Why is he suddenly so helpful?" He wouldn't budge until I gave him a response. "Well, what the heck. I might as well see what a mosque is like. Never been to one. Besides, what harm can this man do me?"
I replied in the affirmative.
More later.....
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| KALANKISTHAN |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 06:16 AM
Simpuuuuu!
ani ani ke bhaa re?? I am waiting for that 'kahani main twist' moment! hehe good going!
Pooonte dai
>>Kalanki!!!!!!!!!!!!! Malai ni khub jaana rahar chha tyo Istanbul tira...sangai tikat kaatne ki? paiso chhaina bhane timro ghara aaunchhu ma, ani dai-bhai milera "ees-taan-bull" (eeeeeeeees bhandai goru ko puchhar tanne) game khelamla! ;) >>
Poonte dai, gaa gaai bho aba tyo ish-taan-bull grrrrrrr!. taan-ish bull!! hehe... Jatti bull-ish taan gare ni euta jaabo Jackson height bhanda paari pugna sakya hoina, aba Ishtanbul ta parai jaawosh. Dai khurukkana NYC mai basnus, ehh... Bekaam ma dai ko tyo karang ma dakkhal hola bull-taan garda hehe! Ma eklai janchu, bhai bhaa ke kaam?
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| Bal Matlab |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 07:11 AM
Very Nicely put together, kept me hooked wanting for more...
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| Poonte |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 07:29 AM
Haina, simpieeeeeeeeeee...tyo sabai tta haru timro suitcase ma atchha bhanyaa? Lawyer re...doctor re...bichara tyausi driver laai chaai baal diyena chhou eheheh...
Ani, ani, ani?
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 07:48 AM
The steps to the entrance of the courtyard leading to the mosque were very high. And there was nothing to hold on to. The man realized this and offered to help me. I decided to accept his help since now there was no turning back. It was a holy place and being religious, I thought it inappropriate to give up and leave just because i couldn't get up the huge steps. He offered me his hand and I took it to walk up.
The courtyard was quite large. There were rows of taps with stools in front where people sat and cleansed themselves for prayer. I walked to the entrance of the mosque where we had to take off our shoes and put them in a plastic bag to carry inside. i was wearing sneakers and had to sit down somewhere to take them off. suddenly, the man bent down to untie my shoelaces!
"Oh, no no no. You don't have to do that," I exclaimed with embarrassment.
"I was just trying to help."
"It's ok. I can manage. Thank you."
I found a spot where I could sit and take off my sneakers, which I placed on the ground in front of me. The man took them and placed them in the separate plastic bag he had taken for me. He wouldn't let me carry the bag!
"Please, let me carry it," he begged. I was speechless as we went inside.
I had never been inside a mosque before. The hall was spacious. A few steps ahead there were railings of brass. Visitors who were not there for prayer were not allowed to go beyond those railings. I stood close and looked around. The walls were exquisitely painted with intricate mosaic patterns.
"This is the blue mosque. The tiles are all blue and at night, the outside is also blue," said this man. He went on to narrate the history of the mosque, the details of which i forget as i was more engrossed in the beauty than at his words! occassionally, i heard a thing or two and nodded in acknowledgement.
"The blue mosque is famous because it is the only mosque with 6 minarets. Other mosques have only 4 minarets," he was saying. He held my hand again and walked me to a pillar had water fountains for Sultans to wash themselves for prayer and prepare holy water for ablution.
"The men prayed in front and the women prayed at the back," he said.
"Why was that? Why does the woman always have to be behind?" I asked irritated.
He smiled and said, "No, no. It wasn't oppression. People have the wrong concept of Islam. If women pray in front of men, when they bend down, then men cannot concentrate in prayer. But if men are in front, then women still have more control. They can still concentrate on praying. Women are stronger."
"That's a lame excuse," I retorted. "Men don't have control....hah, and EVERY religion uses that to give men the advantage. I think it's ridiculous."
"I think you have a point there," he said with a laugh. He pointed at a makeshift wall with tiny holes that was meant for latecomers. They were supposed to stand behind that wall and pray.
We walked out after some time. It was a time for seeing, feeling, and knowing the beauty of another religion. Islam -- a religion villainized by media, revealed its history, its wonder, its grandeur, its goodness.
More later...........
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| Poonte |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 07:58 AM
Damn! Lop parna laagena bhanya? ;)
Women le bend garda men pachhadi bhayo bhane men ko concentration bhanga hunchha re? Teso bhaye gay men laai ta jhan pachhadi paarnai bhayena! Boulaayera Mosque maa hangamaa machaaulaa! so, they have to be arranged in the order of gay men first, then other men, then women! eheheh
Ani, ani, ani?
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 08:18 AM
Islam -- a religion villainized by the media, revealed its history, its wonder, its grandeur, its goodness. Like any other religion.
I walked down the steps having put my sneakers back on. "Will you come to my shop and have some Turkish apple tea with me?" asked the guy.
"Well, I have to be home by 5 and I want to see other places," I said.
"It's just across the street. I would be very happy if you came."
I thought that I owed him that much for his help. I okayed it.
We walked down more steps and into a small street. On the right side were rows of shops selling various Turkish artworks.
"This is Arasta Bazaar. It's very cheap here. And just across from this street is my shop."
I walked up some small stairs and into a posh showroom filled with expensive carpets.
He ordered an apple tea for me. I sat down on an expensive looking sofa. It felt good to get away from the unbearable heat outside.
"Would you like some information about carpets while you wait for tea?" he asked.
"Alright."
He ordered his assistant to bring out the best carpets. Every one of them was breathtakingly beautiful.
"This carpet change color," said the assistant and spun the carpet as he rolled it out on the ground. Yes, the carpet did change color. "It's made of silk."
For the next half hour or so, I was bombarded with a show of carpet finery. I was getting bored after the first 20 mins. Perhaps the man sensed it and said, "Maybe you buy one?"
"How much?" I asked out of politeness.
He did some calculations. "For you, I make 20% discount. Only 2200 dollars," he said impatiently.
More later.....
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| Poonte |
Posted
on 03-Jul-03 08:31 AM
Ma ta side haaneko hola tesle bhaneko ta...chatur byaapari po parechha!
Anyway, I like the way you post short pieces at a time...make's it easy and fun to read!
Ani, ani, ani?
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 04-Jul-03 01:46 AM
"Oh wow, that's expensive!" I said with disbelief. "I don't think I can buy it, Mr. Kemal."
"Tell me your budget. I will show you carpet within your budget," he insisted.
"All this is very beautiful, but I'm sorry I can't afford it."
He persisted in showing me other, according to him, less expensive choices. I didn't know what to do. I felt trapped. He was growing agitated.
What a mess I had gotten myself into! Now I knew why he was acting so helpful !!!
"Mr. Kemal, I have a proposition. There are many other people at the conference who are interested in buying carpets. Why don't you do this. Give me your card and I will pass the word to everyone. Some of them are coming into Sultanahmet tomorrow so you will have plenty of customers," I said, thinking this would make a way out for me.
"Ok Ok, that's very nice of you. But we have had no sale today. You are my first customer." He continued instructing his assistant to show me more carpets.
"What? First customer? How on earth was I a customer?" I said to myself. "Mr. Kemal, I'm sorry, but I am not interested nor can I afford the carpets. I think it's better if you speak to interested people tomorrow. You can perhaps persuade them better, don't you think?" I said, trying to smooth my irritation with a smile.
He glanced at his assistant and together they decided that I wouldn't budge from my decision.
"Ok," he said, clapping his hands for the tea to be taken away. I hadn't had a chance to take a sip.
"I will give you my card. Make sure you give it to your friends," he said with a disappointed and angry expression.
I glanced at my watch. Three o' clock. "I think I will have to go now. But I will definitely circulate your card."
He walked me to the door. I felt like a prisoner released from long captivity. "Whew!!"
"You going to the Sofya church?" he asked.
"Maybe. I'll just look around a little. Thanks for everything." He shook my hand and reminded me to give his card to everyone at the conference.
As I hiked up the steep and inclined street, several people sitting on the sidewalks called out to me,"Lady, where you want to go?" I ignored the remarks and proceeded.
A few turns later, I arrived at the Blue Mosque. There was a tramway alongside the pavement and a park across from it. I strolled into the park and looked around at the beautiful and ancient buildings. It was here that I met with the law student. I have recounted the event in an earlier posting.
More later......
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 04-Jul-03 01:53 AM
Everyone, thanks for reading and commenting on this thread. Indeed, I met with the strangest events during my short Sunday to Thursday stay in Istanbul. It was my first time being in a different and as Poo dai said, an exotic country by myself. An experience that showed me the many colors of life.
In peace.
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| SimpleGal |
Posted
on 04-Jul-03 05:17 AM
Can I walk with you? he asked with his smiling hazel eyes.
I had recently freed myself from a booby trap the carpet dealer. Should I trust this young man? Why, he must be hardly 18 or 19 years old. I tried to make an excuse in my head, but I thought, Why should I judge this guy on the same scale? One person turned out to be deceptive; it doesnt mean everyone else is the same. His hazel eyes and his beautiful smile bespoke his innocent nature.
"If you're trying to sell me a carpet, then i warn you that i am not interested," i said laughingly.
"Oh no no no. i am not selling carpets," he replied with a smile.
"Alright then. We can walk together. i have till about 6pm and then i need to go back to Taksim.
How do you come to Istanbul?
On a conference. With friends.
Ah, with boyfriend? he asked, looking inquisitively into my face.
No, with friends from my University. I smiled.
Ok. Where you want to go?
Where do you recommend?
Alright, you come with me. I will take you to Topkapi Palace. It is 45 millyon liras for the tour. If you go to the harem only it is 8 millyon.
Well, lets go then.
We walked for a few minutes. He pointed out and explained many things that we passed in our short walk. Guards were posted at the entrance of the Topkapi Palace.
They said something to him in Turkish. Oh, its closed now. They close at four. Maybe you come back tomorrow?
Oh, I cant come tomorrow. I am going on a tour to the Princes Islands in the afternoon with my friends.
Come in the morning then.
I have to be at a conference talk in the morning from 9 to 12.30.
He looked disappointed. Ok, we can go to the Gulhane park now. Its nice. It was a zoo before. Now they make it a park.
We walked down a steep street paved with blocks of stone. The Gulhane park was at a slight turn on the right. Luscious greenery met my eyes as I entered.
You see that little bridge there? That used to have many kinds of fish.
Fish on the bridge? I laughed.
No, no, fish in the water. Hahaha.
We walked along as birds chirped among the trees. Oh, that is the statue of Ataturk. You know Ataturk? he asked.
You mean Kemal Ataturk? Yeah, I know of him. Read it in history. He freed the Turks and made modern Turkey, right? I asked.
Yeah, he smiled, probably with pride that his country and founding father were well known. You like my country? You like my people?
Yeah, I like Istanbul. I went on the Bosphorus river on a boat last night. I got to see how beautiful this place is. And the people are very friendly.
I am happy. But be careful about the salesman. They are bad people. Uh, not bad bad, but they dont leave you alone and try to sell something to you.
I know! I met one already! I said. We walked for about half an hour until we came to a small outdoor café. I wanted to sit down. I was tired and hot from the sun.
The man in the café took our orders. Two Pepsis.
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| lonely |
Posted
on 04-Jul-03 08:47 AM
Simplegal,
Great!! Keep writing la....pics haru bhaye sunma sugandha hunthiyo
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| GurL_Interrupted |
Posted
on 05-Jul-03 12:12 AM
That was a superrr TraveL Simple_GaL di! :-). U are a good guide ;-)! Hope to get more tours 4rm You :-)!...It was like, 'I' was in IstanbuL :-).
Can u post some picz. also ;-)?
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| Bhunte |
Posted
on 05-Jul-03 01:35 AM
Carpet boy in Istanabul....
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