| ashu |
Posted
on 20-Mar-03 01:50 AM
What follows was written by Yogendra Kayastha.
This is here with Yogi's explicit permission.
A number of people mentioned in this piece are regular sajha visitors
from Kathmandu.
Enjoy; but feel free to skip this if this is not your cup of chiya.
oohi
ashu
ktm,nepal
************************************************
The Champadevi Hike The Way We Did It!
(Saturday, 15 March 2003 / 15 Chaitra 2059)
By Yogendra Kayastha
As I was sound asleep, the ringing phone woke me up. Surendra was on line. Good morning! Have you seen outside? It is raining! Oh, NO, what a bad news. My heart started sinking. I postponed it six weeks ago due to bad weather and bad health. I hate to postpone it today just because of bad weather. Sixteen friends are looking forward to it. But if it is really raining, there is no way I can lead the hike. But I am not going to give up so easily. I woke up from the bed and opened the curtain and looked outside. It looked any normal winter morning foggy.
Surendra coaxed me to postpone the hike. He was too concerned with the bad weather as it appeared in the morning. But the weather wasnt that frightening as Surendra told me. I assured Surendra and confirmed that I am going ahead with todays hiking program. I got six phone calls before I left home at 7.45 AM each one inquiring about the status of the hike!
I was fifteen minutes late in Shaheed Gate with Bhaktapur gang (7). Everybody was already there except Sagun and Niyosh. Niyosh was the last person to join the group of 18. We rented two Safa Tempos who agreed on Rs. 500 thinking that we wanted to go to Hattiban of Patan. I have to force them to turn toward Kalimati at Tripureswor not toward Thapathali.
The driver sitting next to me seemed worried and murmuring frequently as our tempo was slowly gaining heights as we left Taudaha. My friend (driving another Safa Tempo following us full of ECCAites) will kill me. I thought you wanted to go to Hattiban near Khumaltar but this one is too far and the road is too steep. I kept him silent by offering some more bucks.
As our Safa Tempo reached the tip of the hill from where we can see the KTM metropolitan city for the last time, we forced the tempo driver to stop the tempo and check the reason for strong smoky smell coming from the bottom of the tempo. The engine of the tempo was so hot that it started melting the rubber cables running over it.
The point of starting hike wasnt far away and we did not like to give more problem to already upset drivers, being nice and gentlemen guys and gals, we all got off from the tempo, paid extra hundred buck and started walking. Khokana and Bungamati were just across the Bagmati river lying way below from us. Sagun showed the old flat buildings on our side of the Bagmati river below us and told us that those buildings were made by Ranas to keep all the lepers as prisoners!
Ten minute later, we reached a local tea shop and ordered 18 cups of special tea. Meanwhile, we introduced each other since there were so many new faces in the group Kathmanduites, Lalitpurians, Bhaktapurians, and from Dhading and from Germany.
The food break was initiated with the breaking of boiled eggs (Shanker) by everybody just before serving local tea and after introduction of each other which is followed by best and fresh cookies (Niyosh) from KTM. After eggs and cookies with Tea, we started the hike from Pikhel.
The trail was steep uphill all the way to the Hattiban Resort. Half way to the Hattiban Resort, we have first Orange (Rajeev & Lumanti) break. Looking down the KTM valley, walking along the tops of the ridge, eating orange was ten times tastier than eating at home! Saw beautiful Rhododendrons blooming in the small dwarfed tree. Had first group photo session with beautiful red petals of Rhododendron kissing me!
It took us just an hour to reach the Hattiban Resort. The hiking group spread around the beautiful porch of the Resort overlooking Kathmandu and Patan. It was pity that we could not see beyond the airport and the Indian Embassy of the valley due to haze and fog. When I was here last time, sky was so clear that I can even see the five story temple of Bhaktapur from the binocular.&n! bsp; But today the weather was very hazy. We could not see beyond Indian Embassy ko ban and airport! After drinking tea at the Hattiban Resort, we all started walking uphill at noon!
The huge group of young and energetic friends walking along the ridge top through the pine forest, stopping now and then, enjoying the breathtaking view of the Tau:daha, Chovar, Kirtipur and the 180 degree of Bagmati river & wow&what a great group and great view! I wasnt the first to walk ahead of the group but definitely ahead of most of the group. As I looked at everyones face during short break while walking uphill, I saw each ones face brightened with fresh energy and confidence to reach the destination.
The scenic view on both sides Pharping ko phant and Daxinkali on the left and KTM valley on the right side of the trail had taken away the fatigue of each hiker!
Within an hour, we reached first hill top. Looking back from that point, the Hattiban Resort seemed at the end of the body of the horse looking back from the top of the head. Wow, it took just an hour to walk to this first hill top! Just an hour! After leaving Hattiban Resort, we have not had any food break. So, we had banana (Rajeev and Lumanti) and orange (Paravash) break at the first hill top. We also had nimki tukra (Updendra) at the same spot.
For the first time since we left our Safa Tempo, we have been walking only uphill. Now, we had to walk downhill. I was very conscious about the time as we have to reach the floor of the KTM valley before it gets dark and after reaching our destination Champadevi - lying at the third hill top which is the highest peak in this range. At 1.15 PM, we packed our stuff and started walking downhill to the saddle.
Eighteen minutes later, we had already climbed one third of the second highest peak. I was surprised to see the Banana Break spot way below. It took less than twenty minutes to walk do! wn to the saddle and walk up to that point. That is where we had Onigiri (Uday and Saki) Break.
That was the first time most of us had heard, seen and tasted what Onigiri is all about. Uday and Saki had prepared Onigiri in three different fillings tuna, sardine and one more sea food item(?). Onigiri is rice ball about the size of tennis ball in which fish fillings are neatly hided inside the rice. Everyone liked Onigiri and appreciated Uday and Saki for bringing it in the hike.
Hey look back at that Banana Break spot; it took us only half an hour to reach this place. See, how fast we are walking! I frequently reminded the group how quickly the whole group was walking uphill. I prayed last night not to rain and not to sun shine! See, it is not raining and sun is not also shining! The god had listened my prayer! It is perfect day for uphill hiking no sun, no rain!!! Someone has to energize the tired looking faces!
Sagun wanted to empty his bag full with apples. He wanted to share with the group several times. I always stopped him. The last climb to the second highest peak was pretty difficult. Little more than half of the group was in the last row. What other time could be better than this to eat sweet apples? So we had apple break. Few minutes later, we joined the other half who was waiting for us. Shared the remaining apples with them.
Sagun called Hari through Shyams mobile. We were taking rest at two hours walk uphill from Hattiban Resort I heard Sagun replying Haris queries. It was nice to speak with Hari from that hill top. Hari was too eager to come with us. I was sure he would join with us if he had arrived KTM from Melamchi on time! I checked with Yuko last night at 9 PM. But, too bad, luck did not favor him to join us. He arrived KTM today at noon (as we were leaving the Hattiban Resort!). Hari told me that his bike got flat tires af! ter leaving Melamchi this morning!
At ten minute past two, we reached the second highest hill top. Puspa, Rainer, Niranjan and Niyosh were already there eating angur! So, we had angur break (Puspa) there. There was U shaped stone wall with couple of statues of Shiva lingam and couple of metal Trishuls. Uday told me, Niyosh said that this is Champadevi . I replied, No .
But Niyosh had been here last year and he said it is the Champadevi .
This is Champadevi-II. May be he did not go to Champadevi-I on that highest hill top , pointing toward the giant peak overlooking us from the western side. I was adamant. Honestly, I have not been to Champadevi before. I have been to Hattivan Resort couple of times, and to Macchegaon long time ago but never been to Champadevi. Way back in 1990, while studying geology at TU, one of friend showed me that the highest peak south of Kirtipur is Champadevi. I have storied his information in my brain box since past 13 years and have been dreaming to reach that highest peak south of Kirtipur.
Hey it is written on that stone that this is Champadevi , Uday wanted to prove that that was Champadevi.
Lekhera hunchha ra! My answer finally made Uday quite.
We had ten minute angur break at Champadevi-II. On the western side, there was the huge peak overlooking us. That was our destination. The trail looked real steep all the way to the top. From the point of angur break the trail started descending. The serpentine trail with the dry grasses and bushes on both sides ran slowly downhill. The whole group was split into two halves. The first half reached the saddle and waited the second half. I was walking with second half. ]
We had Barfi Break (Prakash) there. I looked at the map and then at the watch. 2.50 PM. The highest peak looked like a giant demon looking down at us. That was our destination! The end point of todays day-hike. Thats where we were going to see the real Champadevi. Niyosh looked at map and said, That highest peak is not Champadevi.
That peak is called Bhasmasur! I grabbed the map and started looking on it with great scrutiny. Well, from that saddle the stream starts running downhill which flows all the way to Daxinkali. There are three high peaks running from north to south. Looking at the map, and following the drainage backward from the Daxinkali, I realized that I had mistaken Bhasmashur peak (2528 m) wi! th Champadevi.
I immediately said, Niyosh is right .
I saw Uday and Rajeebs face glowing with great satisfaction and joy.
You have to confess that that place where we had angur break is real Champadevi! Uday roared.
Well, I had made a blunder mistake. What I have been thinking as REAL Champadevi since past 13 years proved to be wrong; I did not hesitate to accept my mistake.
Yes, the last stop where we had angur break is real Champadevi&.
I havent even completed my sentence, Uday and Rajeeb jumped over me just like leopard jumps to kill its pray! Their faces glowing with joy, great satisfaction and above all, the sense of winning a great battle like the faces of any victor who had defeated a huge enemy force in the battle ground! Their happy faces made me twice happier! That was the most memorable part of the whole hike&.I saw four guys jumping over me&mimicking to hit me. The first two were Uday and Rajeeb. The other two seemed Sagun and Ashu!
Hera hera! Kasto confidence bhayeko manchhe! Niyosh le bhaneko pani namaneko! Aafu pani Champadevi aayeko chhaina!!! Uday started throwing out what he had been suppressing since past half an hour.
Dhunga ma lekheko chha bhanda pani lekhera hunchha ra bhanne manchhe! Ohh kasto confidence bhayeko manchhe raichha baaa! . Half an hour old dormant volcano finally started erupting! Whatever Uday said, were great compliment to me! You have to be very confident when you are leading a group of 18 people! Columbus discovered America only because he made his own way to the new continent.
Who knows, we might have found something new or mig! ht get real big adventure if we had gone to top of the Bhashmasur!
After all the lavas erupted from Udays gut, I explained why and how I had mistaken Bhasmashur (2528 m) with Champadevi (2249 m). That was the greatest, unforgettable incident of the whole hike!
Ashu and Shyam advised me to carry out Chhema Puja because everybody did not pay much attention to the real Champadevi because of me. We did not even offere few angurs to her.
How on earth people can call that place Champadevi when there are Shiva lingam and Trishuls around? I asked. Nobody had the answer!
Anyway, we had final lunch break at that saddle from where one drainage flows southward to Daxinkali and other northward to Machhegaon and finally to Chovar.
We had BIG BHOJ there: Phuran dana and Daalmoth (Sandhya), sandheko aalu (Saju), kukhura ko chhowyela (Shyam), bhuteko bhatmas chiura (yogi) and daal-moth from Dudh Sagar (Ashu) on newspaper as plate. Niyosh brought two big bottles of Cokes!! Then started gupp shop and Antakchheri and jokes and gajals and muktak and many more&.
We finally left that place at five past four. The trail descended zig-zag way each step made of stones loosely put on the ground. There were lots of fern groves. I named it as Unyoo Ghari!
Few minutes later, I heard Rajeebs loud voice There is no trail here!! I thought he was joking! Aafno baato aafai banaaun! I yelled back from the top. As I reached there, looking down from the tip of the huge landslides, I felt a cold ripples coming from centre of my heart for a moment! Landslide had washed down the chunk of the trail. There was no other way except to make our own way down through middle of that steep landslide. The danger lies in the rock fall! The person walking above may drop rocks which might hit the persons walking below. Shit!
Shyam, Saju and Niranjan had made a way right next to the top of the landslide. It was steep 2-3 m downhill path. About 10 meters walking downhill, the stone paved trail ended abruptly. Now, one must walk through the centre of the landslide! Most from the Bhaktapur group were very fast walking downhill through the centre of the landslide not to mention Niranjan who had been first all the time throughout the day.
Puspa and Niyosh showed some stunt walking downhill off the fresh trail on the loose debris of rocks! Thanks god, nothing happened to them. Sandhya was followed by Lumant in the middle of the row. Both were sliding themselves down. Their pants and jacket covered with dirt. Most of the guys were walking on their butts because one can hardly stand upright in that steep landslide. I was almost in the middle. Last persons in the row were Shyam, Uday, Shanker, Saki and Ashu!
A rolling stone hit the back of Lumanti! Thanks god, it wasnt big stone. But still the rock was falling in great speed, it may have hurt her. Prakash was telling all the guys - walking down in the ! back row - to step carefully and to avoid rocks rolling downhill. Way below at the base of the landslide, there were Saju, Niranjan, Upendra, Rainer, Puspa, Niyosh waiting the other half. The rest of the group walked down the landslide safe and sound! What the great adventure was that! Unforgettable!! Nobody from that group will ever forget that adventure of walking downhill through the middle of the landslide!
At 6 PM, we reached Macchhegaon. Walked by Puspa Lal Park. Took rest at the Chautara for a while. Everyone talking about my mistake and self-confidence. Walked another half an hour along the motorable road before boarding all of us into the min-bus which took us to Ratna Park. By the time we reached Ratna Park at 7 PM, all the Egruop members had already left the bus. Only Ashu and myself and whole Bhaktapur group and Rainer and Upendra and Niranjan were there.
That was the end of the Champadevi hike and the end of the story!
(Written by the hike leader: Yogendra Kayastha, Bhaktapur).
|
